WITHOUT RESERVATIONS
Walking the taste line


Even as haute cuisine
deliberately downgrades
itself, are diners willy-nilly
undergoing an upgrade?
deliberately downgrades
itself, are diners willy-nilly
undergoing an upgrade?
The movement has all the
subtlety and finesse of a
glacier melting. Everything
has happened at pretty
much the same time. Lalitha,
give or take a ‘ji,’ now finds a
wide gamut of ready-to-eat, hatke packaged
meals on the store shelves. Kitchens transmogrify into cucinas, leading
many young Indian couples to believe the enamelled pans that matches
the laminates so well, come free with the remodelled room. The word
‘organic’ has started to grow and grow in meaning, if not quite in demand.
And finally, the coup de foudre. Top-end restaurants have thrown open
their doors to the hoi polloi: the prix fixe has arrived.
Now that restaurants are holding Chef’s Table weeks, becoming
clued-in on all matters relating to food has become more of an
imperative. I mean, you don’t want to come off looking totally
hillbilly when the chef himself saunters over to ask you if you
liked the sashimi he made just for you. This is interaction whether
you like it or not, so you had better get ready to interact. You
don’t want to be staring at the artichoke hearts and wondering
why and how they expect you to eat this vile vegetable. And if
you are going to be a silent diner, you need to look like a celeb
going conspicuously incognito.
clued-in on all matters relating to food has become more of an
imperative. I mean, you don’t want to come off looking totally
hillbilly when the chef himself saunters over to ask you if you
liked the sashimi he made just for you. This is interaction whether
you like it or not, so you had better get ready to interact. You
don’t want to be staring at the artichoke hearts and wondering
why and how they expect you to eat this vile vegetable. And if
you are going to be a silent diner, you need to look like a celeb
going conspicuously incognito.
It’s all about aspiration, see. If indeed our food choices reflect
our cultural milieu, then right now, we are in a happy place.
We dress well, we learn to wield that wine glass just so, holding
the pinkie out stiffly. We learn to manage our flatware
soundlessly, swirl that spaghetti around the fork deftly,
break bread gracefully.
our cultural milieu, then right now, we are in a happy place.
We dress well, we learn to wield that wine glass just so, holding
the pinkie out stiffly. We learn to manage our flatware
soundlessly, swirl that spaghetti around the fork deftly,
break bread gracefully.
We, who used to consider Sunday lunches at the neighbourhood
dosa joint an outing, now indulge in long leisurely brunches.
We do shots like we used to drink the kashaya our grandmas
used to force upon us, albeit with much more enjoyment. We
are getting addicted to Brie in our malai koftas. From gourmands
to gourmets-of-a-sort, we have travelled some distance.
Munching all the while.
dosa joint an outing, now indulge in long leisurely brunches.
We do shots like we used to drink the kashaya our grandmas
used to force upon us, albeit with much more enjoyment. We
are getting addicted to Brie in our malai koftas. From gourmands
to gourmets-of-a-sort, we have travelled some distance.
Munching all the while.
The upgrade cuts across all ages. We have silvers (once known
by that sober sobriquet ‘senior citizens`) happily tucking into
edameme dumplings and sushi, displaying an appetite for new
foods, even as they will feast on appams and avial or
takachi kadhi.
by that sober sobriquet ‘senior citizens`) happily tucking into
edameme dumplings and sushi, displaying an appetite for new
foods, even as they will feast on appams and avial or
takachi kadhi.
This being the post-fusion age of cuisine, at home we are
buying Provencal granola, Mondrian cake and the makings
for an excellent ravioli, all with a spirit of adventure. We still
buy cold cuts but we also walk down to the farmer’s market,
should we hear of one in the vicinity. Because we have
become conscious gastronomes.
buying Provencal granola, Mondrian cake and the makings
for an excellent ravioli, all with a spirit of adventure. We still
buy cold cuts but we also walk down to the farmer’s market,
should we hear of one in the vicinity. Because we have
become conscious gastronomes.
There’s a lot we don’t know about fine dining but clearly, now
is the time to dig deep. Molecular gastronomy is still a book we
haven’t finished transcribing. Not all of us know our truffle from
our mushroom or truly appreciate escargot (aka the humble snail)
but here’s the point: not all of us aspire to be cuisine connoisseurs.
A superficial, mostly tactile, mainly delicious relationship with
new foods is more than enough for us.
is the time to dig deep. Molecular gastronomy is still a book we
haven’t finished transcribing. Not all of us know our truffle from
our mushroom or truly appreciate escargot (aka the humble snail)
but here’s the point: not all of us aspire to be cuisine connoisseurs.
A superficial, mostly tactile, mainly delicious relationship with
new foods is more than enough for us.
As of now, it’s all to the good, chi-chi chow becoming common
or garden fare. We hear that spaghetti is India’s de facto
favourite food and we are not surprised. As we tuck into our
devilled mushrooms and aubergine pate (bharta, anyone?),
as we develop a tendresse for crostinis, game pies and pavlovas
of all flavours, unconsciously we are honing our taste buds to
expect better, to appreciate better. And yes, we no longer
make a beeline for food swimming in oil and masala.
Exquisite, subtle minimalism in flavouring and appearance
has passed the test, and we totally get that some foods are
good to eat as well as good for you.
or garden fare. We hear that spaghetti is India’s de facto
favourite food and we are not surprised. As we tuck into our
devilled mushrooms and aubergine pate (bharta, anyone?),
as we develop a tendresse for crostinis, game pies and pavlovas
of all flavours, unconsciously we are honing our taste buds to
expect better, to appreciate better. And yes, we no longer
make a beeline for food swimming in oil and masala.
Exquisite, subtle minimalism in flavouring and appearance
has passed the test, and we totally get that some foods are
good to eat as well as good for you.
Simply put, we have come a long way from the frozen peas
and spring roll days of yore. Now we can give the PPs
(Pretentious People) a run for their forex. When the chef
comes to our table, we can tell him/her that the sage lent
a most esoteric flavor to the terrine. We know our sweetmeats
from our sweetbreads. With some practice, we can
pronounce Sauvignon Blanc just right, too.
Achievement, achievements.
and spring roll days of yore. Now we can give the PPs
(Pretentious People) a run for their forex. When the chef
comes to our table, we can tell him/her that the sage lent
a most esoteric flavor to the terrine. We know our sweetmeats
from our sweetbreads. With some practice, we can
pronounce Sauvignon Blanc just right, too.
Achievement, achievements.
Where this movement has an edge is that never in the history
of evolutionary movements has the method been as delectable
as the end result. Let’s raise a toast to that, shall we?
of evolutionary movements has the method been as delectable
as the end result. Let’s raise a toast to that, shall we?